Joel running up the first pitch of "One Arm Bandit." 

Anya on the second pitch of "One Arm Bandit." 

Aaron taking on the hanging thin curtain while umbrellas of ice hang above on the 3rd pitch of "One Arm Bandit." 

Anya on the second rappel as the snow starts to fall. 

Heading down 

V a l d e z A l a s k a

I spent the past week climbing ice in Valdez, Alaska. We had clear skies, but windy bitter cold. I wore everything I brought. I switched back to my double plastic boots. I used jedi mind tricks to stay warm while sitting through belays.

The Valdez Ice scene is gone. We only saw two other groups of climbers, both on the easy access classic Bridalveil. Finding the Keystone canyon (the popular canyon with the highway going through it) to be windy and dark, we explored the outlying areas and came away with a couple good success stories.

Yes I am climbing in my belay jacket. Warming up to the cold and bullet hard ice of Valdez on "Mudslide." 

Bjorn dancing with wind bells and bulges on "Horsetail Falls." 

on the ski into Bear Creek Canyon we ran into a moose and her calf. 

Bjorn leading up the first pitch of "Rain Check" (IV, 350') 

Hunkered down at the second belay. 

Forest starting up the second pitch of "Rain Check." 

Most trips have a defining moment, ours would be "Spring Loaded" (V, 900') More alpine than ice route, Forest and I climbed it in four 70m rope stretching pitches. The first pitch being steep snow, frozen mud, and mixed rock and ice which lead us to a couple short thin pillars to start the second pitch and then full waves of ice for the next 650' to the top. The cold temps and engaging climbing left me wishing post climb that I had done better with the camera. This route ranks very high on my all-time route list.

Joel's perpetual gaze, honestly having a great time after leading the first pitch of mud, grunge, rock, and ice on "Spring Loaded." 

Forest post third pitch crux, finally warm and ready to lead the fourth pitch of "Spring Loaded." 

Joel topping out on "Spring Loaded," looking eager for descent and warmth. The sun had sunk below the mountains mid-pitch and the temperature was dropping fast.

a rest day ski / snowshoe through the blasting wind in Mineral Creek canyon. 

Earning our spot to sleep, preparing to bomb some cornices. Valdez is snow. 

Wrapping up the week, Forest leading up the dark corner second pitch on "Oosik" (spelling?) Yet another good route with bad ice.

the unbelievable wind bells on "Hung Jury." We didn't have the guts to walk underneath these much less climb on them.

Valentines weekend on Broken Hearts

Powder days at Big Sky and design work aside, Anya and I headed down to Cody and climbed one of our best routes together, "Broken Hearts." For those of you in the heartland, this single route may have more pitches of ice than either single state of Minnesota, Wisconsin, or Illiniois.

Anya getting her swings in on the 2nd pitch of "Broken Hearts" near Cody. 

Joel on the 3rd pitch. It was so warm and sunny we could climb with just a single layer of clothing. 

Anya leading up the thin but sticky 4th pitch. 

Joel in the middle of the cone on the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. 

Joel making the big lead on "My Only Valentine" also known as the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. 

a Moment of Recovery

Just a note here. In the middle of a no-climbing break, still training, just haven't been out in a week or so. Lots going on.

The new look, its been a year now and I've posted over 100 photos. (really!) dig through the archive and wonder where the year went, and wonder how I still feel I didn't climb enough.

The Beartooth Route Log Book version 1.0 is now ready for viewing and new route submissions at Steepworld Climbing Gym. If you've got anything to add to it give me an email.

Be on the lookout for some of my photos of Aaron Mulkey climbing "Hostile Takeover" on the cover of this weeks edition of "Pulse," the Red Lodge / Cody activities news print.

I will be climbing in Valdez, Alaska the last week of February / first week of March. They say if you can climb well in Cody you can climb well anywhere. Time to put that to the test. Wait, I could be climbing better..........

It's all Nice on Ice

The past three weeks I've had the pleasure to take out a good slew of climbers to a couple of my local haunts. Put some miles on the car, climbed a lot of different types of ice, and watched Anya pull her lead climbing to a new level. Now that I'm back to climbing on my own schedule I don't know what's next, but it should be good.

Joel keeling over with the screaming barfies while Anya tells him to suck it up.