Frozen Tarts on Broken Hearts

Joel leading up the first pitch of Broken Hearts. Air was cold but the ice was still sticky. 

Below zero temps in the shade and biting wind made for a very short day. Bringing Aaron up on a rope he probably doesn't need.

On top of Spaghetti

Sunday we climbed Spaghetti falls proper then simuled through 3-4 waves of WI2-3 and reached a split in the coulior. We chose the left and this intricate 25 meter pillar. A "Meatball Pitch" of sorts. I'll post more photos later this week when I get them.

Stan nearing the top.

Anya with a long Cody decent back to the car. 

Aparently there was a moratorium on climbing the Moratorium this weekend. Some days you take your pack for a long walk and then for some reason it just doesn't want to go any higher. Turning around on something this good really, really bums me out. At least the Cody nightlife proved to be a spectacle to behold. 

The best life never leaves your lungs.

Mmmmmmm Cody. I don't know if ice climbing can really get any better. Spent the weekend climbing with some great Cody locals and now I'm off to Alaska to celebrate Thanksgiving with Anya's family and investigate the nocturnal winter wonderland.

The beautiful 400ft of Hostile Takeover, Aaron belaying me up the first pitch with Kenny and Scott freezing at the bottom. 

Hoping a long screw goes in to the hilt, turning cranks on the second pitch of Hostile Takeover, Cody WY. 

Leading up the second pitch of Hostile Takeover as seen from accross the canyon, Cody WY. 

Thin ice difficulties near the top of the second pitch of Hostile Takeover, Cody WY. 

Coming back a week later for quick Sunday morning climb up Curtains. This being the shower known as the second pitch. 

Ice season has officially begun. Chris and Jim joined in the fun and Jim turns out to be one sweet climbing photag. Me hauling the pack up for no real reason on Curtains, the staple early season Cody climb. 

Yes I can boulder too.....working The Ripper in Cody, Wyoming. 

A Work in Progress

C-Table. Prototype A. Circa 2005

One guy to drive the boat. One guy to keep the boat off the rocks. One guy to pull the rope out of the water. And one Anya to think about what Joel's gotten her into this time. 

Ted following up our 100ft crack line out of Yellowtail Canyon southeast of Billings. Second Weekend of September. 

Solutions to a Modern Alpine Environment.

Well Seftick and myself dug into the beartooths to finish the tower that Sheldon and I started last week. The ridge above proved to be excellent exposed climbing although easier than we were expecting.

The line of our 4 pitch ascent. The crux was surprisingly in the dihedral on the first pitch that I first climbed with Sheldon last week. The arete was 3 full 200ft rope pitches, and did steepen up, but big holds abound and gear opprotunities existed although not plentiful. 

Joel near the top of the easy second pitch with the steepening arete lurking above. I found a placed piton a few feet above this stance. 

The doctor (hey, he passed boards) coming up the easy but exposed ridge of the second pitch. 

Joel leading up the big question mark 3rd pitch. Was there holds and gear on this arete? Yes. Big holds and "good enough" gear. 

One week earlier Sheldon and I went up and did the first pitch in two shorter pitches. This and the photo below were taken on that day. Joel at the hanging belay inside the base of the dihedral second pitch.

Sheldon popping his head around the corner into the dihedral, deeply perplexed and puzzled by the mossy but not so chossy first pitch. 

Anya on her first day of lead climbing in Cody, WY. 

Crisco Disco

Just an update here as I see it's been a while and with good reason.

1. Took a small climbing break after the tetons
2. I am in the middle of shopping for a house.
3. I was beaten out for a house because I was at a softball game and missed the offer window by 15 minutes. (let the jokes begin)
4. I hit the game winning home run at the above softball game.
5. My climbing parter took a 15 foot fall onto a ledge and banged up his ankle on our 3rd pitch of some huge rock wall in the mountains.
6. The above provided some excitement in getting down.
7. I cut some hairs.
8. OK, I had a lot of hairs cut.
9. I've been working at CTA for more than a year now, and I still like my job.
10. It's freaking hot here.

till more......

The Grand, Owen, and Teewinot from our cabin at the American Alpine Club Climbers's Ranch. 

Disapointment Peak (11,600 feet) and it's spoon couloir dropping down to Amphitheater Lake which Mr. Seftick skied on July 4th.